Show more answers Unanswered questions Ask a question 200 characters left Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. By using this service, some information may be shared with. Tips Sansevieria or snake plants come in several color variations. Some have gold edges or cream stripes. Bird nest varieties can have some pink color to them. Sansevieria plants are one of the oldest of houseplants, being kept by the ancient Chinese in homes. A great balanced fertilizer is Flora-nova grow npk is 7-4-10 this prevents over fertilizing and provides the plant with a majority of micro and macro nutrients. A jug of tap water left open will allow the chlorine to evaporate over a few days.
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Place in a warm, bright area with no direct sun (or brief morning sun) and very little water, especially in fall and winter. Fertilize (half-strength balanced) only during warm, bright weather in spring and summer. At this time you can water a little more, but always allow to dry between watering. Repot when stems fill the pot. How can i keep my plant write from getting too big? Can I prune it? Wikihow Contributor Absolutely; you can cut the leaves at the base, then propagate them by cutting each leaf into 34 inch sections, letting them scab overnight then planting them directly into new pots. My sansevieria is flowering. Do essay i need to cut the flower off? Wikihow Contributor no, you don't, unless you have allergies to the pollen. When it is flowering, the plant is giving off more oxygen, so this is beneficial.
Wikihow Contributor essay be patient but don't get your hopes up, as snake plants rarely bloom. Why are my leaves turning yellow, and how do i remove them? Wikihow Contributor It has been over-watered. Unless they are really sick-looking leaves, just leave them. Don't water so much, and they should perk up again. What do i do when it starts falling over in the pot? Dan boehlke horticulturist Either you are watering too much and rotting the roots, or you have it in too dark a location and it isn't producing enough roots to hold.
Why, and how can I stop it? Wikihow Contributor you're drowning the plant. Stop watering immediately, and rub a small amount of essay vegetable oil on the leaves. The vegetable oil will force water out of the mushy spot and turn it green again. What type of light does this plant prefer? Wikihow Contributor Bright light will make the plant grow faster, but it can handle low light conditions, it will just grow more slowly. What can I do to get my snake plant to bloom?
My plant has three little plants sprouting up alongside the big plant. Can these be removed and planted separately? Wikihow Contributor These types of little plants can usually be planted separately. Just make sure they have their own root systems before planting. Do the babies grow up to be the size of a normal snake plant? The snake plants tend to grow slowly, but the plant stalks are usually the same height when fully grown. My plant has dark mushy spots on it leaves.
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4, water along the sides of the plant. Try to keep water out of the center of the leaf clump. Water until water drains from the bottom and empty resume drained water from trays future promptly. Part 4, fertilizing 1, fertilize sansevieria plants once in the spring with houseplant fertilizer mixed according to label directions. Fertilize in spring with a fertilizer mixed in a watering container.
General care 1, wipe the leaves of sansevieria with a damp cloth if they get dusty. 2 Transplant when the plant is getting too big for pot. Other signs that it needs transplanting include: When the roots start to come out of drain holes or if the pot breaks (clay pot). Water thoroughly when transplanted. Add soil to pot when it settles after transplanting. Community q a search Add New question leaves are falling over, and when I remove the base, it's squishy with water. Wikihow Contributor Yes, this is a common problem among snake plant owners.
4, keep plants in temperatures between 40 and 85F (4.4.4 C). Part 3, watering 1, use a probe hydrometer to check the soil moisture weekly. Water when reading almost zero or when dry to prevent root rot. By hand: Let the pot surface feel dry to the touch before watering in spring and summer. 2, water very little in winter or in a cool air-conditioned room. Wait until the pot is quite dry before watering.
Water if you notice the leaves are drooping and the pot feels dry. 3, water the sansevieria plant correctly. Use room temperature water. Use distilled or rainwater if possible. If using tap water- allow it to stand for at least 48 hours to dissipate chlorine, fluorides etc. If possible, one week is better.
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Put the sansevieria plant in an east, west or north windowsill any time short of the year. If it's a south-facing window, place the plant about one foot from the window, to the side, year round. (This advice is directed at the northern hemisphere.). Provide bright fluorescent or other lighting. This will provide enough light so that the sansevieria plants grow well. 2, use the sheer drapes to filter intense sunlight during the day. 3, turn the pot quarter turns weekly for even light exposure.
you own a greenhouse, you can use the outdoor plants as a source of cuttings in September, meaning that you can greatly increase the number of plants and so have a larger display the following summer. If, however, you have neither a greenhouse nor a spare room for pots of geraniums, you can try hanging up the old plants in the garage over winter. Dig up the plants before the first frosts arrive and shake all the soil off the roots. Tie a small bunch of the plants together and suspend them upside down from the roof of the garage. Dust lightly with fungicidal powder such as sulphur and leave them until the spring. Soak the roots before potting or planting outdoors. Extracted from The bedside book of The garden by Dr essayon, Expert books,.99.
Before the first frosts arrive, dig out the plants and shake off the soil around the roots. Pot them up singly in seed and cutting compost, using pots that are just big enough to house the roots. Reduce the height of the stems by half, and cut off yellowing leaves and dead flower heads. Put the pots in an unheated spare room or in a cold greenhouse. The plants will be exhausted after their summerlong activity outdoors and should not be treated as house plants to be coaxed into eksempel flowering. They need a rest and on no account should they be kept warm. Do not feed them, and water only when it is essential to stop the leaves from flagging. When spring comes, the pots should be put in a well-lit spot and the amount of water should be increased, but do not force them into active growth by feeding and copious watering. As soon as the danger of frost has passed, transplant the geraniums outside so they can once again burst into growth and provide a summer-long display.
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Millions of gardeners have benefited from Dr Hessayon's practical gardening advice, and his latest book is full of fascinating horticultural facts. In this extract, he shows how you can cut the cost of your summer displays next year. Geraniums remain a fundamental part of our summer bedding schemes. The bold umbels of red, pink and white flowers are seen in gardens, window boxes shmoop and balconies everywhere, but as any botanist will tell you, the bedding 'geranium' is not a geranium at all; it is the zonal pelargonium. Look closely at the leaves - you will see a distinct horseshoe marking or zone in nearly all varieties. Summer blooms: Geraniums don't take well to the English winter so take them inside ready for next year. The ivy-leaved pelargoniums are less popular but are no less useful, drooping over window boxes and hanging baskets. Sadly, you cannot expect these geraniums to survive the average British winter - not for us the perennial displays of shrubby geraniums that clothe balconies and even hillsides in more favoured climes. Just because they are frost-sensitive does not mean bedding geraniums should be thrown away at the end of the summer - they're far too expensive for that.